Egypt’s Foreign Policy of Fear Is Working by Safia Southey

The map of the Iran war has a hole in it. Iranian missiles and drones have struck or threatened U.S.-linked targets from Jordan to the Gulf. Qatar, Bahrain, Kuwait, and other American partners have discovered that hosting U.S. power can mean hosting its enemies’ targets too. Egypt has stayed off the list.

Egypt borders Gaza, sits on the Red Sea, controls the Suez Canal, absorbs pressure from Sudan and Libya, and depends on Gulf money to keep its economy upright, so geography alone cannot explain its relative safety. Yet since Oct. 7, and through the U.S.-Iran war, Egypt has avoided becoming a battlefield, a launchpad, or a symbol.

How did Cairo end up in this privileged position? Disciplined fear.

Egypt’s strategy has been to be useful without being enlisted. It is a U.S. security partner, but not a major forward base for U.S. warfighting against Iran. It cooperates with Israel, but refuses to become the territorial solution to Gaza. It talks to Iran, but does not go to bat for Tehran. It depends on Gulf patrons, but has tried to keep channels open with their enemies. Egypt has made itself relevant to every crisis and central to none of the wars.

Gaza Without Sinai

Gaza presents the best window into Cairo’s posture. When Israel’s defense minister promised this spring that plans for Palestinians to leave Gaza would proceed “at the right time and in the right manner,” he did not have to say where they would go, given that Gaza’s only non-Israeli land border runs into Egypt’s Sinai. Cairo’s answer has not changed: it will mediate Gaza, police its border, and facilitate limited movement, but it will not absorb mass displacement.

That refusal is often described as solidarity with Palestine, and it is, but only in part. Accepting the mass transfer of Palestinians from Gaza would make Egypt the logistical partner in their removal. It would also import the war, create a permanent security crisis, and make Gaza an Egyptian problem. Cairo has learned to let the moral argument speak for both rationales.

Cairo wants to be indispensable to Gaza diplomacy without becoming responsible for Gaza. It wants to appear pro-Palestinian enough for domestic and Arab politics, cooperative enough to keep Israel and Washington engaged, and hardline enough on Sinai to stop displacement before it becomes irreversible. Egypt will host the talks and manage the humanitarian files, but it will not become Gaza’s landlord.

Alignment Without a Base

The same logic governs Egypt’s role in the Iran war. Egypt does not want to defeat Iran, defend Iran, or serve as the staging ground for a U.S. campaign against Iran. It is exhausted, and wants the war to stop before it reaches the Red Sea, Suez revenues, tourism, or further impacts energy prices, food prices, or Gulf deposits.

Egypt is aligned with Washington, tied to Israel by its 1979 peace treaty, and financed in large part by Gulf states. It receives major U.S. military aid and remains inside the American regional order. But it has avoided the most dangerous form of alignment in the current war: hosting a U.S. military base. It can give Washington access, coordination, overflight, canal passage, and diplomacy without becoming a launchpad for strikes on Iran.

That distinction was easy to miss before the missiles started flying. Before the war, the Gulf basing model looked like insurance. Iran now reads it not only as deterrence, but as a target set. The U.S. presence that promises protection also supplies coordinates for retaliation. Gulf states spent heavily to build the infrastructure, bought deep into American weapons systems, and made U.S. power central to their own security. But that is exactly what makes the model vulnerable when Washington goes to war: if Iran cannot strike Washington, it can strike the places where Washington is parked.

The Jordan Comparison

Jordan used to own this role. For decades, it was the model Arab survivor state: small, quiet, pro-Western, and too useful to fail. Iran has complicated that model. Jordan remains useful, but it is also more directly embedded in U.S. military posture and more domestically exposed to Palestine, giving Amman less room to treat Gaza as an external file.

Egypt is playing this role on a larger scale. It is also pro-Western, cautious, and survivalist, but unlike Jordan, it’s not just a buffer. It has roughly 10 times Jordan’s population, and the map running through Cairo is wider: Gaza, Israel, Sudan, Libya, the Red Sea, Suez, the Nile Basin, the Mediterranean, and Africa. Jordan keeps borders quiet. Egypt connects systems, giving Cairo more leverage as well as more reasons to avoid escalation.

The Economy of Fear

Egypt cannot afford a foreign policy of ambition. Its economy is too fragile, its debt too heavy, its currency too exposed, and its population too poor to absorb another regional shock.

The Red Sea crisis made this brutally clear, as Houthi attacks on shipping did not have to hit Egypt to hurt it. Ships avoided the canal, revenues fell, and one of Cairo’s main sources of foreign currency became hostage to a war outside its borders.

A war with Iran, a collapse in Gaza, a wider Red Sea conflict, a refugee surge from Sudan, or a rupture with Gulf donors would hit Egypt at the same time. Foreign exchange, fuel, food, tourism, debt, domestic prices, and regime legitimacy all sit close together. Fear disciplines when the margin for error is small.

Egyptian caution is shaped by regime survival. The same state that refuses to absorb Gaza’s displacement also crushes dissent at home. The same government that speaks in the language of Palestinian rights also coordinates with Israel and manages Rafah through a security lens. Egypt’s foreign policy of fear is not a moral project, but it has been consistent, and thus far, successful in insulating Egypt from excessive external and internal pressure.

If Israel decides it can manage Gaza without Cairo, Egypt’s leverage shrinks. If Gulf states demand harder alignment against Iran as the price of support, Egypt’s room narrows. If the Red Sea remains unstable, Suez revenues suffer no matter how careful Cairo is. If Sudan’s war pushes more people and weapons north, Egypt’s border policy will come under greater strain. Egypt’s role is thus to contain, not solve, which is why the model is effective and ugly at the same time.

What Egypt Shows

Egypt’s relative quiet reveals that the old security map treated visible proximity to American power as the safest place to stand. The Iran war has shown that proximity can also be a liability — a state can be protected by the United States and exposed by the same fact.

Egypt has avoided becoming the battlefield, base, or retaliatory symbol of the region’s main interstate war. While aligned, dependent, and deeply entangled, it has made itself useful without making itself available. It avoids the forms of commitments that make partners look like targets.

Egypt has learned how to stand near the Middle East’s wars without becoming the place where they are fought. In a region where ambition gets you hit, that may be enough.

2L Reflection by Safia Southey

Trump made my summer ICC internship illegal, which means I can bring the blog back and post mildly concerning content. One year ago, I wrote a list of 1L takeaways thinking it was going to be the most intense year of my life, and while this year had considerably less drama, it took possibly even more out of me–in different ways, and thank god for that.  

Last week, I finished my second year of law school. As a 1L, I frequently compared CLS to middle school, a place where you were assigned friends that you were forced to spend every day with, given that you also had no choice as to your classes or schedule. No autonomy or control, which was only compounded by the fact that the community was so small that every piece of information about you was instantly public knowledge, and often developed a life of its own that wasn’t always representative of reality. 

Beginning my 2L year, it felt as if I was leveling up to undergrad. Finally, I got to choose what my life was, and for me, that meant human rights. 

I don’t want to be too repetitive because truly anyone who vaguely knows me is aware of my tendency to overcommit. I was told many time this year, “I am concerned for you,” given my schedule. I am incredibly sorry for all those who heard me whine and cry about my level of busyness as I continued to say yes to any and all tasks that came my way. I put a list of at the end of this for reference. 

I will say, I was also told–truly an embarrassing number of times–that, “you are both one of the most professionally successful people I know at this time of our lives, and one of the least successful when it comes to interpersonal matters.” After qualifying for the 9+1, I completely stopped running. I have developed a near crippling addiction to Celsius. I survive 100% off free Columbia food, my wonderful roommate’s leftovers, and whatever Ari doesn’t eat on the weekends, along with his old Halloween candy. I physically do not remember how to feed myself, especially not “good” food. I have cried in an embarrassing number of faculty offices (shoutout to Sarah, Kelsey, Manmeet, Madhav, Pistor, Smock, Savvedra for putting up with my spontaneous sobbing during our conversations). The vast majority of my socializing is within the context of school activities. There were many first dates that didn’t go anywhere, not least because of my horrid schedule and being in CT every weekend, despite me often declaring that we are getting married.

However, all that being said, I survived. And in some ways, thrived. That’s all thanks to my people in Jessup, Clinic, the Lourve, my three J-boys (jules jimmy and jo), my 1L mentees, my 3L mentors. I have much to work on, but I’m incredibly grateful. I’ll be moving to Amsterdam from September to January, but I’ll be back often, so don’t miss me too much. 

I love lists, so here are the most important parts & experiences of my last year. 

1. Weekends in Connecticut 

No, I do not have a three year old child, although I wouldn’t be surprised if you were confused about this if you follow my instagram. I began nannying Ari when he was born in 2022, when I took care of him from 9am-5pm, 5-days a week. This year, after his baby brother Eli was born, I went back to helping out with the little ones, this time in Greenwich. I want to say I’m sorry to all the people I wasn’t able to hang out with over weekends because of this, but not really. Every Saturday morning, I go to a diner with two small children and one of their dads, who’s honestly become one of my best friends. We took Ari to his first movie theater to see Wicked, which he now knows every single word to (and which I have to watch at least once a weekend). I also know Frozen inside and out, and Ari and I often play Elsa and Anna, sometimes dressed in full costume. We go to festivals and parks and museums and pick flowers in the forest, with Teddy and Twyla often by our side. 

2. Columbia Human Rights Community 

I often joke that my personality is “human rights” and that anything that has “human rights” in its title at CLS, I’m a part of. In 1L, I didn’t get many choices, but this year, I am immensely grateful to be able to cocoon myself within this community and isolate from the rest of the law school, or else I genuinely don’t think I would have been able to get through this past year. I have been given more opportunities to contribute to important work than I even thought possible, and despite my hatred for CLS, I’ve been set up for life with all the connections and chances I’ve been blessed with. I am incredibly lucky to be able to call many of my professors colleagues and friends now, and to call my Human Rights Clinic teammates two of by far the most impressive, interesting people I know at school. Thank you for always listening to my bullshit and putting up with my schedule. And for being brilliant, obviously. Thank you to the new human rights / public interest 1Ls, who continue to amaze me with their persistent passion and unwavering efforts to make the world better even in the face of the government and our school threatening to take apart your world in return. You have done so much good in the world.


3. Jordan & The Yemen International Forum 

The Human Rights Clinic generously sent Teyya and I to Amman to attend the Yemen International Forum, put on by our amazing partners at the Sana’a Center. There, we hosting a one-day pre-forum workshop where we got to engage with Yemeni experts and practitioners on greening transitional justice and held a shorter event at the forum. Emailing with the UN Special Rapporteur on Transitional Justice. Getting to sit into high-level background conversations regarding the Houthis and Iran. Eating knefeh on the floor with Teyya. Soliciting Arabic translations from Grace, who was secretly running our team from New York. Dinner with the Dutch Ambassador. Wandering Amman with Sarah, Emma, Teyya, and Luna, eating delicious food, rediscovering the city I lived in, once upon a time. 

4. Jessup Moot Court & regionals in Charlotte, NC

Truly, huge shout out to my Jessup team. By far the most important people to me–and the most important activity for me–over the past two years, and a main reason why I have survived with any semblance of sanity or any appreciation for (any) law. I may know absolutely zero American law, but god can I help you out if you have questions about international human rights law. 3/4 kiddos, I am so, so proud of you. While this year’s competition ended deeply unfairly & disappointingly, I was able to spend the time with some of the most inspiring, brilliant, absolutely fun people I have met at CLS. Thank you for the hours of debate over the importance of baseline charts, for hell week, for teaching me so much–and I can’t forget about the karaoke, arts & crafts nights, crying @ Sephora, getting recruited for celsius, and of course, juice cogens (aka war crime cocktails). 

5. Traveling to Guyana and Suriname simply because I learned way too much about them (& their coastlines, in particular) for Jessup and thought it was a funny bit

Between Suriname and Guyana, my ferry broke down and I was stuck, burning horridly uncovered in the middle of the water, taking phone calls with Knuckey and hotspotting myself so I could contribute to amicus briefs and UPRs. I similarly had to hotspot myself to help out Dr. Mann and AARN in the bus across Guyana as we swerved through dirt roads and had our fair share of near-misses with other speeding vehicles. However, apparently I wasn’t too frustrating, because the bus driver did decide that we were in love; there are very few things in this world I enjoy more than a random overly-intense travel-romance where I dramatically run off to the airport before anything actually happens.

+ some other notable moments:

  • Becoming a competitive eating competition master (1st in pie, 3rd in hot dogs) 

  • Being incorrectly dressed for nearly every fancy event this year

  • Moderating events with Ken Roth, UN Special Rapporteurs, and others that I have looked up to for years and am beyond honored to get the chance to interact with 

    • and getting to order whatever I’m craving that day for HRA events

  • Getting a gecko! Yay Roonie! Not living in Central Park! 

  • Julian and Grace surprising me for my birthday 

  • The town hall group & co-hosting a small secret meeting with the CLS faculty I respect most 

  • Lots of apartment misadventures with Sandhi and their superbly cool crowd 

  • Starting to make my papier mache dragon, in the longstanding Southey tradition 

  • Mela (the South Asian Law Student Gala) / crashing way too many SALSA hang outs

  • Teyya’s beautiful Clinic room doodles 

  • Contributing to amicus brief (I don’t really know how to talk about all the shit that went down on campus this year)

  • Continuing my daily collages!!!!  

  • The occasional menty b with Joseph in Lenfest 

  • El Salvador over fall break, and climbing an active volcano 

  • Many, many overlapping meetings (aka, taking a meeting with one headphone in and participating via chat while I am literally sitting in another meeting or class) 

  • The Mice 

  • New Orleans with my best friends (love you guys so insanely much) 

  • Being on the the cover of CLS’s new students packet 

  • So, so, so many plants 

  • Waxman’s class and the absolute mental devastation it wreaked on me 

  • Dinner parties with James & his twitter folk, who are, much to my surprise, people I enjoy  

    • and in turn, discovering twitter  

  • Taking CLS Arabic in the fall, which was………not good, for anyone involved (but I passed!!!!)

  • Going to Cali for eggs 

  • Having a cough for literally all of fall semester 

  • My Jordanian mirror adventure 

  • Concerts & dins with Sam, Dimitri, Jasmine, & Pete

    • including all nighter Friday nights that bled directly into CT mornings with the babies 

    • and of course being able to study / drink / eat / chat with Meghan, Max, and Andy 

  • Christmas in Guelph with Janey, Clive, Kit, and Basil 

Consent Under Pressure: Unequal Power in the Nuclear Nonproliferation Regime by Safia Southey

International law often claims to rest on the principles of state consent and sovereign equality, but recent developments in nuclear governance highlight how these ideals obscure the structural inequities embedded in the system. From the International Atomic Energy Agency (IAEA)’s censure of Iran’s nuclear program to the lack of scrutiny over Israel’s undeclared nuclear capabilities, the principle of consent appears as little more than a façade for weaker states. Iran faces stringent compliance obligations under the Nuclear Non-Proliferation Treaty (NPT), enforced through sanctions and diplomatic isolation. Meanwhile, Israel–unbound by the NPT as a non-signatory–evades accountability entirely.

This disparity illustrates how power asymmetries distort international law, transforming consent into coercion for weaker states while exempting powerful nations and their allies from scrutiny. Such dynamics not only undermine the legitimacy of the nonproliferation regime but also perpetuate global inequalities. Analyzing the contrasting cases of Iran and Israel reveals structural flaws in the current system, underscoring the need for reforms to ensure nonproliferation norms are applied consistently and equitably.

The Crisis of Nuclear Nonproliferation

Nuclear nonproliferation is widely regarded as one of the cornerstones of international security. The NPT, adopted in 1968, was designed to prevent the spread of nuclear weapons, promote peaceful nuclear energy development, and obligate nuclear-armed states to pursue good-faith negotiations on effective measures for nuclear disarmament and the cessation of the arms race under strict international control. The treaty’s three pillars–nonproliferation, disarmament, and peaceful nuclear use–form its conceptual foundation.

Over five decades later, however, the nonproliferation regime is increasingly criticized for systemic inequities. The framework disproportionately scrutinizes non-nuclear weapon states (NNWS), while nuclear-armed states and non-signatories evade accountability for their obligations. Iran’s nuclear program exemplifies this imbalance: despite Tehran’s repeated assertions that its activities are peaceful, the IAEA has intensified its scrutiny. At the same time, Israel, whose nuclear arsenal is an open secret, avoids comparable oversight, reflecting how geopolitical considerations distort the application of international law.

This imbalance is particularly urgent given recent developments. Iran’s announcement of advanced centrifuge deployment has escalated tensions, prompting the IAEA to issue resolutions denouncing its alleged non-cooperation. Simultaneously, Israel’s nuclear capabilities remain shielded by U.S. diplomatic support and strategic immunity. These cases highlight the systemic inequities at the heart of the nonproliferation regime.

Iran: A Case of Coerced Consent

Iran’s nuclear program has long been a focal point of the nonproliferation regime, illustrating how weaker states are subjected to coercive compliance mechanisms under the guise of voluntary consent. North Korea serves as an example of the significant costs associated with withdrawing from the NPT. Although the treaty permits states to exit, as North Korea did in 2003, such a move often results in near-total isolation from the international economic and political system. For Iran, remaining within the NPT framework–despite its challenges–avoids the severe repercussions that follow such a withdrawal, underscoring the constrained choices faced by weaker states under the regime.

As a signatory to the NPT, Iran is obligated to adhere to its safeguards regime, monitored by the IAEA under Article III of the treaty. While Iran has consistently asserted that its nuclear activities are for peaceful purposes, its relations with the IAEA and Western powers have been fraught with mistrust, culminating in decades of sanctions, inspections, and negotiations.

The JCPOA and its Collapse

In 2015, the Joint Comprehensive Plan of Action (JCPOA) was brokered between Iran and the P5+1 (China, France, Russia, the United Kingdom, the United States, and Germany) to address concerns over Iran’s nuclear program. The JCPOA required Iran to significantly curtail its uranium enrichment activities, redesign its Arak heavy-water reactor, and allow extensive IAEA inspections in exchange for relief from international sanctions. Central to the agreement was Iran’s acceptance of the Additional Protocol, which expanded the IAEA’s authority to inspect undeclared facilities and verify compliance.

However, the JCPOA unraveled in 2018 when the United States, under President Donald Trump, unilaterally withdrew from the agreement and reimposed sanctions on Iran. This action arguably violated UNSC Resolution 2231, which had endorsed the JCPOA and called upon all member states to support its implementation, thus undermining both the deal and the multilateral trust required for the nonproliferation regime to function effectively. In response, Iran gradually rolled back its JCPOA commitments, resuming uranium enrichment at higher levels and installing advanced centrifuges.

Recent Developments

Since 2021, the IAEA has repeatedly censured Iran for its lack of transparency and failure to cooperate fully with inspections. A resolution adopted by the IAEA’s Board of Governors in 2024 criticized Iran for failing to clarify the presence of uranium particles at undeclared sites, intensifying international pressure. Tehran, in turn, announced that it had begun operating new generations of centrifuges, significantly increasing its enrichment capacity.

Iran’s actions, while framed as defiance, must be understood in the context of coercion. The reimposition of U.S. sanctions has severely affected Iran’s economy as a whole, with particularly harsh consequences for the middle class, including restricted access to global financial systems and exacerbating domestic crises. The European Union, while attempting to mediate, has in recent years aligned more closely with the U.S., further isolating Iran–driven not only by nuclear compliance issues but also by concerns over Iran’s human rights record and its support for Russia in Ukraine. However, this marks a significant shift from its earlier stance; until 2020, the EU actively opposed U.S. sanctions, even invoking a ‘blocking statute’ to protect European companies from compliance with American penalties. This economic and diplomatic pressure leaves Tehran with few options other than compliance with the IAEA’s demands, undermining the principle of voluntary consent.

Legal and Normative Implications for Iran

Iran’s treatment under the NPT illustrates how the nonproliferation regime prioritizes enforcement against NNWS while failing to address the nuclear capabilities of states outside the treaty framework. Article IV of the NPT guarantees the “inalienable right” of all parties to develop nuclear energy for peaceful purposes, yet Iran’s exercise of this right has been subject to scrutiny and obstruction. The selective application of this principle reflects broader inequities in the system, where weaker states are coerced into compliance while powerful states evade accountability.

Israel: The Exception to the Rule

In stark contrast to Iran, Israel operates entirely outside the NPT framework, maintaining a policy of nuclear opacity that has shielded its program from international scrutiny. Despite widespread acknowledgment of its nuclear arsenal–estimated at 80-90 warheads–Israel remains a non-signatory to the NPT and is not subject to IAEA safeguards or inspections. This status has allowed Israel to develop and maintain its nuclear capabilities without IAEA oversight, highlighting the geopolitical double standards that weaken the consistency of the nonproliferation regime, though Israel’s policies have faced criticism in other international and regional forums.

Historical Context of Israel’s Nuclear Program

Israel’s nuclear program began in the late 1950s with covert assistance from France, which provided the technology and expertise to build the Dimona reactor in the Negev Desert. Officially described as a “research facility,” Dimona became the centerpiece of Israel’s nuclear weapons program. By the late 1960s, U.S. intelligence assessments concluded that Israel had developed a nuclear capability, though successive U.S. administrations refrained from pressuring Israel to join the NPT or dismantle its arsenal.

The doctrine of nuclear opacity, or amimut, has been a cornerstone of Israeli security policy. By neither confirming nor denying its nuclear capabilities, Israel avoids triggering regional arms races while deterring potential adversaries. This ambiguity has been supported by a tacit understanding with the United States, which has shielded Israel from international scrutiny and ensured that its nuclear program remains beyond the reach of the IAEA.

Selective Enforcement and Geopolitical Immunity

Unlike Iran, Israel navigates the political mechanisms of nuclear governance without being bound by formal legal or institutional constraints. As a non-signatory to the NPT, it avoids the treaty’s safeguards and disarmament obligations, relying instead on its diplomatic and strategic alliances to deflect scrutiny. Attempts to bring Israel under international oversight, particularly through UN resolutions calling for inspections of its facilities, have been repeatedly blocked by its allies, especially the United States. While Israel’s approach reflects its adeptness at managing the political mechanisms that define nuclear governance, the need to consistently defend its nuclear opacity on the global stage challenges the notion that it operates with complete impunity.

This strategic immunity reflects the broader power dynamics of the nonproliferation regime, where geopolitical alliances play a significant role. While states like Iran are subjected to coercive measures due to their lack of powerful allies, countries like Pakistan, despite not being U.S. allies, also avoid similar scrutiny, demonstrating that factors beyond alliances contribute to the selective enforcement of nonproliferation norms. In contrast, Israel's nuclear capabilities have largely escaped international sanctions, primarily due to its strategic alliances, notably with the United States. This disparity undermines the legitimacy of the nonproliferation regime, creating a perception that its enforcement is driven by political considerations rather than universal principles.

Normative Implications for Israel

Israel’s exemption from the NPT framework has significant normative consequences. By failing to address Israel’s nuclear program, the international community signals that nonproliferation norms are selectively applied, weakening their universality. This double standard erodes trust among NNWS, particularly in the Global South, who view the system as perpetuating existing hierarchies rather than promoting collective security. It also undermines efforts to establish a Middle East Nuclear-Weapon-Free Zone, a longstanding goal of regional diplomacy.

The Broader Implications of Selective Enforcement

The contrasting cases of Iran and Israel highlight the structural inequities of the nonproliferation regime. While Iran is coerced into compliance through sanctions and inspections, Israel operates outside the system entirely, shielded by geopolitical alliances. Iran’s recent alliances with Russia and China, while offering some shielding from coercive pressures, underscore the hypocrisy of a system where power dynamics and connections to major global players determine the application of nonproliferation norms, rather than universal principles. This selective enforcement undermines the principles of sovereign equality and voluntary consent, eroding the legitimacy of the NPT and the IAEA.

Distortion of Article IV Rights

Article IV of the NPT affirms the right of all parties to develop nuclear energy for peaceful purposes. However, the selective application of this principle has created a two-tiered system, where NNWS like Iran face significant barriers to exercising their rights, while non-signatories like Israel, though subject to light criticism for its nuclear capabilities, evade the formal scrutiny and obligations imposed under the NPT framework. This disparity perpetuates global inequalities, limiting the ability of NNWS to pursue legitimate development goals.

Erosion of Trust in International Law

The perception of bias in the nonproliferation regime has broader implications for international law. When enforcement is seen as arbitrary or politically motivated, states are less likely to view international institutions as legitimate arbiters of global norms. This erosion of trust weakens the normative foundation of the nonproliferation regime, making it more difficult to achieve compliance and cooperation.

Moving Forward

Addressing these inequities requires a fundamental rethinking of the nonproliferation regime.

  1. Extend Oversight to Non-Signatories: Mechanisms should be developed to bring non-signatories like Israel under IAEA oversight, recognizing that such measures would require the consent of the states involved. This could include tailored agreements that balance security concerns with transparency requirements, ensuring that all states are subject to basic nonproliferation norms.

  2. Ensure Consistent Application of Article IV: The IAEA must adopt a more equitable approach to enforcing Article IV rights, ensuring that NNWS pursuing peaceful nuclear energy are not subjected to undue barriers or coercion.

  3. Depoliticize Nonproliferation Enforcement: To restore trust in the system, the IAEA could establish an independent review body to assess enforcement actions, though care must be taken to ensure its composition and rules are perceived as impartial. While challenges remain in overcoming perceptions of bias, such a body could help ground decisions in objective criteria rather than overt geopolitical considerations.

The principle of consent in international law is fundamental to its legitimacy, but its selective application within the nonproliferation regime reveals the extent to which power asymmetries distort this ideal. The contrasting cases of Iran and Israel illustrate how coercion and geopolitical bias undermine the principle of sovereign equality, eroding trust in the system. However, by reconceptualizing compliance as a collaborative process rooted in mutual consent and ensuring that norms are applied consistently, the international community can begin to address these inequities. A fairer and more balanced nonproliferation regime is not only necessary for the legitimacy of international law but also critical for maintaining global security in an increasingly polarized world.

A Love Letter to Randall's Island by Safia Southey

I first ventured to Randall’s Island for Governor’s Ball, where swarms of exuberant, scantily-clad, and intoxicated teenagers descended to revel in the music of their favorite artists. On June 7, 2014, after a morning with Moses, I found quiet ecstasy dancing to Jack White and Broken Bells. Sean captured countless photos of me atop a “hello” sign, images that later graced my 2016 cover photo. On March 28, 2016, I meandered through Randall’s en route from LaGuardia to 117th Street after celebrating my mutual birthday with Vy in Texas. In 2020, I took Mina to the beautiful bizarro LuminoCity Festival, and in 2021, Teddy and I paddled through the Bronx Kill in our little inflatable boat.

During the Covid era, Sean and I transformed the island into our daily escape, planning our schedules around 6-9 mile walks. We tuned into classes and conference calls, with occasional breaks for Pokémon catching. The day we first surpassed the six-mile mark in the soft, golden-hour light felt as if we had unlocked a new level in a video game. Under the shelter of Hell Gate Bridge, we planned our futures—law school, tattoos, entrepreneurial ventures. Rain or shine, we would dodge between children playing sports, young girls horseback riding, and families celebrating with barbecues at the 103rd Street entrance. We became fixtures on the island, once even prompting an onlooker to shout, “Y’all are here every day, are y’all best friends?”

With Sean away, Randall’s became my refuge for marathon training in 2022, where I logged loops under the sun to reach my 14-mile targets. After returning from London in the fall of 2023 to start law school, I eagerly devised new running routes, sometimes joined by Cole for early morning jogs. In 2024, I helped little children run in circles around Icahn stadium during NY Rising Road Runner’s field day. 

Randall’s Island has undergone significant transformations from its early days as a somewhat daunting locale housing a psychiatric hospital, addiction treatment facility, shelters, a police station, and a wastewater treatment plant. The pathway to Governor’s Ball was the only lively area back then. A beautification project during Covid’s quieter days turned the island into a vibrant community space. Athletic fields and picnic grounds now dot the landscape, where hundreds of children play baseball on weekends. Amid New York’s current migrant housing crisis, it now provides shelter to 3,000 asylum seekers, adding complex new layers to its identity. On the rare mornings I run there, I encounter food delivery bikers, police officers, and the usual jubilant families.

It is one of the few spots where you can truly appreciate the Manhattan skyline. The island offers a peaceful retreat from the city’s hustle–unlike the crowded paths of Central Park, you can wander through nature almost alone, immersed in tranquility. Students dash across sports fields while runners and bikers make their circuits around the island and commuters traverse the narrow pathway to the Bronx. The sunset casting its glow over the greenery is unparalleled—a visual reminder of why this place is my safe haven.

My personal evolution has mirrored the island’s—through changing relationships, numerous therapy sessions, reconciliations, and moments of sheer joy. Every visit to Randall’s Island reaffirms the chokehold it has on my heart. The view of New York and the 116th Costco (always inspiring me to ponder if I could just swim home) never fails to fill me with immense joy. I’ve often implored friends to experience this place’s magic with me, grateful to those who’ve indulged me—even if they've complained of sore legs afterward—and slightly miffed at those who've passed up the opportunity. On perfect spring days, leaving feels unimaginable.

I miss Sean, but take comfort in knowing he'll return. We'll be best friends once again, exploring our favorite spot in New York. As life changes around us, this island remains a constant sanctuary, a source of comfort I know will always be there when I need it.

1L CLS Moments by Safia Southey

Five years ago, I wrote a tribute to Menton. Back then, I wrote “Menton is a bubble, an enclave where the rest of the world disappears, a parallel universe populated with only 300 people. It’s a place where you can’t hide - if you make a mistake you live with it, you are forced to face it head-on, spending 10 hours a day staring at the person who you got into a fight with the night before.” I had not anticipated returning to such an environment, constantly existing in the public eye, your free time devoured by classes, clubs, and mandatory events spent in the company of the same 50 people, where the concept of privacy becomes almost comical. 

Unlike Menton, Columbia is not a beach paradise; we are sequestered in two oppressive buildings with a library reminiscent of a modern bastion. You forget what daylight looks like after yet another day of breaking free of campus at 8pm, the night ahead filled with the looming task of conquering crim and conlaw. We exist in a Russian Doll loop, starting again each morning over only to be drowned under the weight of whatever new challenge each lovely day brings. 

Through this cycle, though, we find our tribe. There exists a camaraderie in our shared struggle, a built family with whom to find delight in exciting case facts, read over externship and clinic applications, and relish occasional moments of freedom at firm events, bar reviews, and dinner parties, amidst the otherwise seemingly endless days (and for me, the hundreds of hours of Jessup). We can’t step out of campus directly onto a beach, but the city offers its own escape–a quick subway ride throws us into a tapestry of overlapping, bewitching cultures–that is, if you can get a CLS student to leave Morningside.

We live in a fantasy world, filled with firms that seduce you with gourmet food and promises of a future of inexhaustible wealth, and accented by a collective moment of elation at 3:30pm and a groan following the smell of pizza wafting out of your planned lunch event. It is a madhouse of similarly inclined nerds, where ambition and passion is a common language. Each one of us is here for a reason. At Columbia Law I was offered the chance to be reborn, with the inability to hide forcing genuine growth. It has guided me to my people–those who share my quirks and values, challenge me, keep me accountable, and built me up when things were very not good. Reiterating what I said all those years ago, “you either come to terms with who you are, put up a facade to impress those around you, or you become mindful of who you are and make changes for the better.” We are trying our best.

  1. mornings with Max and the early morning crew with our free Warren breakfasts  

  2. scoping out lunch events with Dimitri

  3. entertaining myself with my bingo board 

  4. being ridiculously overcommitted in clubs and and reveling in it 

  5. nonstop texts throughout class in 8+ separate groupchats 

  6. lenfest loops with Meghan (“surely”)

  7. documenting the most depressing and absurd Lee quotes 

  8. chaotic firm events with unlimited free food and alcohol (followed by bar review) 

  9. shaking at the prospect of an Emens cold call 

  10. dinner parties with everflowing wine and intricate cheese plates

  11. competitive geography games with Dimitri in torts  

  12. giggling at Max’s hot takes and his facetious back-and-forths with Jasmine 

  13. enjoying law revue more than I’d like to admit 

  14. subjecting Tor and Bassam to truly everything in my life   

  15. red wine in Lenfest 

  16. meghan and I trying not to cry in crim (and failing a vast majority of the time)

  17. spending hours in the library, dancing, pining, occasionally studying 

  18. valentines day packages for all of my friends 

  19. dancing on the LES until my feet ache 

  20. bridgerton & indian food at Jessup international rounds (& oh so much jessup in general)

  21. laps at dodge in triathalon preparation 

  22. the pride of creating coveted outlines scrapped together from years past (thank you sugarman) 

  23. matching pigeons with Hunter 

  24. collective dread of LPW

  25. senate parties, from laps on Halloween to nonstop dancing on Valentine’s Day to sequestering in the anxiety room at Barristers 

  26. the beginning of daily collages!!! 

  27. proudly watching Jasmine debate every single male professor & lust after the women

  28. inappropriately laughing so hard in class that we cannot breathe 

  29. nicotine and gab breaks with Joseph 

  30. rediscovering the piano and reteaching myself how to play 

  31. my embarrassingly loud computer fan 

  32. the encampments?!

Travels 2.0 by Safia Southey

Five years ago I wrote up a list of some of my favorite travel experiences - and now, at 110 countries, I thought it was time to provide some updates!

In 2018, my classmate said to me, “I really want to go to Crimea but none of my friends are willing to go with me–you go to pretty wild places, want to come along?” And of course I did, followed by a week of gallivanting through Simferopol, Sevastopol, and other gorgeous Crimean cities, stumbling across local fairs filled with pirogues and plov and Tatar dancing, studying for finals. We ran out of money before the end of our trip and couldn’t take out any more due to sanctions, but we just about made it until we were able to leave and head to Moscow. There, we spent Russian Independence Day watching tanks run down the street and jets scream above our heads.

That same year, my friend and I embarked on a road trip through every tiny city in Europe I had previously missed. While on a mission to get lunch in Lichtenstein, we ended up traveling through at least four countries in a day (Lichtenstein, Germany, Switzerland, Austria). We often slept in the car, waking up to the sunrise above Strasbourg and Munich.

In 2019, I went on a one month trip with my father through Southern Africa. We went scuba diving in Cape Town, saw sand dunes in Namibia, safari’d in Botswana, bungee jumped in Zambia, spent New Year’s Eve camped out in Zimbabwe, white water rafted through Victoria Falls, dove with sea lions in Mozambique, nearly got kicked out of the country on our way to Swaziland, and saw the world’s saddest waterfall in Lesotho (and possibly got malaria there as well).

2020–I finally embarked on my long dreamt of trip to Central Asia. Filled with chaos and beauty at every turn, I am still shocked that I emerged alive from that trip. Seeing gorgeous Islamic architecture and blue tiling, finding a cargo ship/ferry to take me across the Caspian Sea (and getting hit on by the captain), hitchhiking from the boat to a small town in Kazakhstan, being invited into random homes for lunch, then getting suck in that town with no money and having to barter my headphones for a ride across the border into Uzbekistan, etc.

In December 2019, I met my incredible partner–the beginning of many adventures. Teaching Cole to scuba dive in Hawaii, coffee tasting in Columbia, getting kicked out of Barbados for having the wrong PCR test, diving with sharks in the Maldives (where I got so hungover on my last night I could barely leave the hotel), visiting (nearly) every cathedral in France, sleeping in the Barcelona airport after messing up on 24-hour time, exploring the Amazon Rainforest in Ecuador (my country #100!!!!!), climbing 300 vertical meters to visit the Tiger Cave in Thailand in the pouring rain, finding him rabies shots after being bitten by a monkey on a jetski, and wandering around Angkor while delirious from heat stroke.

Spring 2022, walking through Israel with my mother, seeing where I had taken my first steps at the Wailing Wall, visiting Masada, spending time with my momma. 

Summer 2022, I visited my dad in Rwanda, and together we crossed the border in the DRC. There, we hiked hours to see East African gorillas and watch families of primates roll around in the forest and groom each other. We visited a Chimpanzee Rehabilitation Centre, met a local community of native Pygmy people, and drove through the countryside with anti-UN killings and escalating going on just a few kilometers away.

Later that summer, I spent a week with my best friends in Porto, eating the best sardines of my life made by Hannah and grilled by Grace, drinking Port, playing music until 3am every night, and reading by the beach.

And still that same summer, I hitchhiked for two weeks around Morocco. Losing my passport on day 1, we searched through the desert to try to find the diving school car that had it. Being contacted a week later on Twitter that some man saw it in a different town and let me know where to find it–and it was there! Sadly at the same time, my mother had mailed me my other passport, which was apparently illegal, and it is still to this day being held by Moroccan authorities.  

December 2022, I went hitchhiking again, but this time in West Africa! My friend Jake and I rode on top of a 20-hour iron-ore train through the Sahara desert in Mauritania (on Christmas), which was one of the most beautiful and peaceful experiences of my life. We hitched a ride with the ambassador to Senegal, who gave us a place to stay, papers to cross the border, and even cash that he insisted was worthless to him. Jake and I were nearly stranded in many places that trip, sitting in the sun outside Chinguetti listening to early 2010s music, riding busses and motorbikes on our long journey to and from King Kunta Island in The Gambia. We often found ourselves in the middle of nowhere and loved absolutely all of it. 

After celebrating the best day of my life on June 17 in Sitges, Spain, Cole and I embarked on an adventure. Our time in Thailand and Cambodia was filled with white water rafting, lots of scuba (he got his advanced license!), zip lining, hitchhiking, actual hiking, a cooking lesson, hot springs, jetski (where Cole got bit by a monkey oh no), rock climbing, temple hopping, and more. BUT, he had to leave our trip because he got his dream job, leaving me to explore all of Vietnam solo. I made my way up the coast via hitchhiking on the backs of motorbikes and sleeping on busses, walking 15 miles a day in the 95 degree heat and reading like a maniac. The trip culminated with a three day motorbike tour through the Ha Giang loop, where I wound through mountains and clouds, through lush green mountains and torrential rain, through red mud and the most beautiful landscapes of my life, in a place seemingly untouched by time. 

I ended my South East Asia trip by visiting my dad in AlUla, Saudi Arabia, which was filled with gorgeous landscapes and protected areas and history and culture. There, I decided to run 3 miles at noon in 105º heat, of course immediately giving me heat stroke from which I was only recovered by a sunset picnic at Elephant Rock with delicious Pakistani food and pink lines running through the sky. 

I am very excited for the future, and where the rest of my travels take me. :)

Vietnam by Safia Southey

Hello all! One of my goals for this year was to write a short piece on all my heftier trips, and so I wanted to share a bit about my recent trip to Vietnam. After an incredible trip through Thailand and Cambodia, Cole had to return to work, leaving me with the perfect opportunity to explore Vietnam on my own. Armed with a visa with an expiration date and a desire to immerse myself in the country's beauty, I set out on a two-week adventure to nine cities. While this blog was initially written as a journal, I hope it will serve as an informative account of my experiences in Vietnam.

 July 9, hitchhike to Ho Chi Minh (6h)

  • Main sites: Ben Thanh Market, Nguyen Hue Street, Book Street, waterfront

  • Incredible hitches from Phnom Penh to Saigon! One man in a taxi took me all the way to the border, and a family picked me up there and took me to HCM. They even took me to lunch - noodles, it was really nice. They had a 10-year-old son with perfect English who gave me a Pokémon card, a really sweet boy. He was missing a hand, I’m curious if that’s an after-effect of the war and use of Agent Orange.

  • Absolutely obsessed with Saigon, it was incredible and lively and bustling and overall really cool. Lots of markets and nice restaurants, not too touristy but very international nonetheless. It still had a very authentic feel to it - I just absolutely loved wandering through the city at night. I walked a ton and even found a book street! I ate summer rolls with peanut sauce and a passion fruit juice at the main market, and couldn’t get over how nice and fresh the food was in comparison to Cambodia and Thailand. It was like Bangkok + Paris + New York, but with none of the aggression. It had a beautiful waterfront and lots of green spaces, felt very clean and safe, but also very hip and edgy - a grunge that I really appreciate. Big ups. 

 July 10, day in Ho Chi Minh, overnight bus to Dalat (10pm-6am)

  • Main sites: cathedral, War Remnants Museum, Central Post Office, Saigon Opera House, A O show, Ben Nghe Food Market

  • Wandering around Saigon during the day was a bit hot and devastating. I got a coffee and sat by the water, saw all the things I wanted to see. Cried a bit at the War Remnants Museum, in the Agent Orange section. I got really bored and homesick and tired and hung out in a mall food court for a while, once I checked out of the hotel and had nowhere to go. Traveling solo can be a bit devastating at times, especially in the heat. Went to a touristy performance at the opera house - so weird, and impressive - definitely didn’t regret it but it was a wild experience. Then I went and got on my night bus! Definitely a trying day but taught me a lot - also I spent the day listening to a long podcast on the Vietnam War and it really did teach me a whole lot.

 July 11, day tour in Dalat, hitch to Nha Trang

  • Woke up from the night bus and went into a tour of the Dalat countryside! It was really quite lovely, we saw animals at a coffee shop where they make weasel and elephant poop coffee (which smelled incredible but I didn’t try), and saw a beekeeping place and tried the honey and larvae. We saw two waterfalls - one much more spectacular than the next, and I sat while watching them and reminisced about the summer and how lovely it was. We saw a giant lady Buddha and I climbed up her, and got nice pho. I made friends with a British man who I got along quite well with, he reminded me of my dad. After a final coffee shop / flower garden stop, I got dropped off on a highway to hitch to my next location. Vietnam has an abundance of motorbikes and a lack of cars, so my first three hitches (starting at 5pm, in vaguely rainy weather), were all on the backs of motorbikes. I finally got let off an hour from Dalat and really didn’t know what to do, I was in the middle of nowhere, when a man in a limo van came and generously picked me up to go to Nha Trang. He blasted house music and we fully had a rave in his car, it was so much fun, even though he barely spoke a word of English. I finally got to Nha Trang and could feel the energy of the city, and was very happy and energized and exhilarated from the hitchhiking journey (although it kind of put me off hitchhiking for the rest of the trip).

 July 12, day in Nha Trang, overnight bus (9:15pm-8am)

  • Did some work at the hotel and then walked all around. I saw a local performance at Ponagar Temple (very cool structure) and got a bahn mi sandwich from a cart on the road. It was quite nice and very cheap. I laid on the beach for a while and went swimming, the town was a bit touristy but overall very lively. I walked an hour towards the bus station but then got bored and hitchhiked a ride on a motorbike to the bus. The man was quite sweet and gave me 100k Vietnamese (~$5), despite my attempts to return the money. I met a group of German students traveling around as well while waiting for our bus. 

July 13, Da Nang day trip from Bac Nam

  • The bus was late coming in and I had to run to the meeting place for the day tour, but luckily made it. The tour was a strange adventure through a French-themed amusement park - saw the Golden Bridge which was my goal, a bridge held up with giant hands in the sky. I ate delicious Vietnamese doughnuts, these fried sesame balls, and a chicken sausage on a stick. The park was up in the mountains (we used cable car) and had a beautiful view of the water down below.

  • Bus to Hoi An, 5:30-6:30pm

  • Hoi An was beautiful, absolutely breathtaking. It was a town straight out of Spirited Away, all lit up with food carts and lanterns in the sky and on the water. There was an extensive night market with trinkets and homemade goods, and the streets were lined with incredibly cheap beautiful clothing, as the town is known for its tailored suits and outfits. I regret not getting a dress. I wandered around, watched the boats all lit up on the water, with candles and lanterns peppered between them. There was live music and lots of exciting restaurants and bars. I had a tofu Vietnamese rice paper “pizza” from a street cart, and got a couple cheap beers from the local mart to enjoy at my homestay. Definitely my favorite location.

 July 14, spend half day in Hoi An

  • Spent the morning wandering Hoi An, walking about 10 miles through rice fields and the beach, while listening to Pride and Prejudice. Considered buying some outfits but sadly didn’t. Instead, I got a bit more sunburned while enjoying the vast green fields and water along the way. I ate a nice chicken rice dish with fish sauce before my bus, which was another sleeper that I consistently find strangely cozy and nice.

  • Bus to Hue (12:45, Hoi An Full Moon Bus - 16:45, Tbus Hue)

  • Hue is very cool - breezy, open, not as busy as HCM but still has a lively downtown walking area. I walked through all those areas to the boardwalk where there were some nice boats, and then across the bridge to where the imperial city sits. Big Times Square vibes - a little gaudy and bright, doesn’t feel as personable, less of a unique local culture. Found a cool night food market with local food, got myself a nice pho - I should figure out how to read all the different menu items. I rarely order pho because it requires you to sit down and the people watch you eat and I feel self-conscious, I rather walk away with my food, but tonight was alright. All the kids waved and said hello to me (something I experienced throughout my entire trip). I walked 14 miles and drank roughly 5 liters of water today. I’m getting very good at walking in front of motorbikes, although I am a bit homesick for my friends in New York.

July 15, half day in Hue, imperial city

  • I had a lovely morning exploring Hue and the imperial city. The imperial ruins were very impressive and spread out, the history was impressive and visible and I enjoyed wandering about. The city itself was cool, but a little cold (personality-wise) and didn’t make a big impression on me. I crossed the water and saw interesting growths in the ponds, and then after a brief reprieve in the hotel to charge up, I walked along the canal to the train station. It was really quite beautiful and verdant and clean; the heat is impacting me less and less, and I feel okay as long as I drink lots of water. Waiting for the train now, just had a lovely rice dish with some pork and shrimp. The train was delayed but the station has air conditioning and wifi and I am comfortable reading until it arrives. I need to do laundry desperately.

  • Train to Dong Hoi (13:41 - 16:41)

  • Hang in Dong Hoi - I made a friend in the train here! A young Iranian British girl, very cool. After a fine train ride - my first in Vietnam - my new friend and I decided to wander the city. We walked down the Main Street until about found the water, and then we located the walking street filled with food carts. Had a really great bahn mi, and we ate together by the water. We got along really well, talked about family and school and planned future trips to South America and Iran. She eventually left for the next city and I began my way back to the train station, taking a detour across the bridge. It feels like Los Angeles: a bit bright, wide streets, there may be interesting things but they’re not easily found.

  • Overnight train to Hanoi (10:43pm-10:35am), annoyingly bright

July 16, Hanoi (Hanoi Charming House)

  • Beautiful morning on the train, not the best sleep of my life because people didn’t turn all the lights off but overall I think better than the busses. Or at least equal - the trains have full chargers which is nice, and better views.

  • Wandered Hanoi through tiny side streets, a souk style market, clothing/fabric area (lots of silks), beautiful water area with bridge and surrounding park, all very lively even when I got out of the immediate center. Walked through the national park and saw the more beautiful pink flowers. Walked past another outdoors clothes market, this one filled with camouflage and military gear, some of it American - unclear whether any of it authentic. Headed back through the main downtown market area, ate the best lunch of my entire trip by far (even though it cost a whole $5!!!), and saved half of it for dinner which made it all super worth it.

  • Very cool night market, the whole street becomes like a huge party filled with lights and food and excitement. Very fun - even though I was very tired and wired, which made it a bit overwhelming. I have no idea how they set up so many stalls, for streets and streets! It was incredibly impressive and extensive, filled with absolutely everything. There was even a pottery painting shop / activity that took over a whole block!

 July 17-20, Hanoi & Transport to Ha Giang

  • Main sites: Imperial Citadel of Thang Long, Chùa Tran Quoc, Phu Chu titch, and the Lenin Park

  • Woke up tired and homesick. Yikes. Explored some more, walked through the lively downtown area to a more open space full of grand official buildings. This area was really cool and green, felt like the Buckingham Palace part of London - very formal and curated, less “wild” than downtown. Walked part way across the bridge to admire the large Ho Tay body of water. Along the way, just in the street, I saw people playing board games, getting haircuts, gathering around food, selling clothing and other random goods, playing music. It made me really happy to people watch and explore. In retrospect, it feels like an older population than Saigon, but that might be a product of younger tourism there. I also passed by a lovely flower market! All the outdoor shops made a lovely sight to walk through. After a quick stop by the hotel to check out, I got a bahn mi sandwich, filled up my water at a potable water station, and found a bench by the park to eat and hang out! Wandering afterwards, I stumbled across a variety of parks and even a cathedral! Cole would be happy. Very few tall modern buildings; architecture looks like it’s from the 60-90s, it’s not built up like Bangkok (or at least not the part I’ve been in). It’s really easy to wander for hours and barely repeat. Hard for me to figure out what I like more, HCM or Hanoi. Hanoi has more room to explore and is a bit more chaotic, which I typically love, but made me feel a bit suffocated and overwhelmed when things really filled up at night. HCM was more curated and calm but still really intensely cool.

  • Bus ride to Ha Giang was absolutely gorgeous - incredible mountain silhouettes and a very orangey red sunset that overlaid everything. Villages and temples and towns peppered the road there, along with vast fields and rice paddies. The deep red dirt is such a contract to the US and makes everything feel more dreamlike and intense in comparison.  The sky began to look somewhat smokey like it was on fire, until it was all a blaze of red. The colors were vibrant beyond compare - and then suddenly, the sky was black. We stopped for lunch and I had a rice tofu dish, which I had actually been craving.

  • During these last two days I’ve been reading more social justice books and they’ve been invigorating and intense.  I also have been listening to music on this bus, and I think that’s what I’ve been missing this last week: music. Much happier.

 July 18-20, Ha Giang Loop: three day motorbike loops through the north of Vietnam!

  • Day 1, it’s already so fun - rainy and wet and windy and scary. With a group of people, winding through mountains and agricultural areas. Lots of rice paddies, children waving and saying hi, people doing work and not caring about us much. We stopped about every 15k to take photos and chill. It was very beautiful and dreamlike. Been taking the opportunity to reflect on the book I’m reading and thinking about growth and happiness, take account of what I’m grateful for and how I can best use my privilege to redistribute power. We were all so exhausted by the end of the day but it was so worth it. It’s hard to express the experience of these days, a lot of breezing through mountains and villages and agricultural spaces. It was incredibly to see how people in this part of the country live. The loop is a relatively recent development, and so it was interesting to see how locals still got very excited by our presence, instead of being frustrated by it (although that might change in coming years). 

  • Day 2, breakfast and then on the road! Incredibly foggy, felt like we were driving through clouds. It was like we were moving through landscape paintings with the fog and sun just vaguely peering through, the rain lightly drizzling on us to make it a full adventure. Looked like a different planet, like land that time forgot - like dinosaurs are going to pop out at any moment. It’s incredibly lush and intense. Switching elevation so often that we’d pass through the clouds, sometimes it’d seem like they were rising from the ground, and other them when it’d be descending from high above. Some roads were very rough and unpaved; puddle and gravel filled the way. With the weather, I’m happy I didn’t drive it myself. I got quite emotional thinking about how lucky I am to have adventures like these and to live a life surrounded by love.

  • Incredibly cute children in the middle of this gorgeous landscape. I can’t believe people just live here. Some of the young boys dressed in berets and played the flute, as there used to be a major architect / flute player who dressed like that and lived in the area, becoming a major celebrity and role model for the children. We stopped at a French military base, very magical. Astonishing rock structures - some really black, lava like rocks too - and green just bursting through everywhere.  The fog made it incredible, I started crying a couple times; definitely a moment of “awe.”

  • After we finished driving on day 2, we swam in a nearby lake, and had a little party. All the drivers would come up and have us take shots of “happy water” (a type of corn wine) with them. We must have had around 15, on top of several beers. People were dancing and singing - overall a very exciting time, plus we were celebrating my driver’s alleged birthday which made it all the more wild.

  • Day 3, the first hot day! It was a whole new perspective, without the rain and the fog - just bountiful green and bright sun. We stopped by a lake at one point with the clearest water, the air absolutely filled with butterflies and dragonflies. It was straight out of a fairytale.

  • Eventually, we all got back on a bus to Hanoi, followed by a boring evening and a flight to Laos - but this is where my Vietnam travelog ends!

 

OVERVIEW / MAIN THOUGHTS RE VIETNAM AS A COUNTRY:

  • Real care for fashion and style, all the young people looked very cool 

  • Kind, welcoming, safe, even after dark. I never even once felt unsafe, and it wasn’t as aggressive as, say, Bangkok

  • Thriving local culture, lots of community spaces including public parks and bodies of water; people were always out doing things together

  • If you visit, Ho Chi Minh City, Hoi An, and Hanoi are total musts - everything else was interesting, but those three were definitely the best and some of the coolest cities/places I’ve ever visited in my life

  • Incredible street food - very good and consistent in quality and price

    • For reference, 10,000 ($0.42) for a 1.5L water or can of beer at a minimart, 20-30,000 ($0.85-1.27) for street food like bahn mi or pho, 50,000 ($2.11) for bigger dishes from local restaurants

    • Bun cha was my favorite but there was always a variety of bread, rice, and noodle dishes to choose from

    • There were also nice cafes and restaurants, although I didn’t frequent those – although they didn’t seem to be for the exclusive use of tourists, which was nice

  • Abundance of fresh fruit and juices and sugar cane

  • Deep care for coffee

 

I'm grateful for the privilege of having such incredible adventures and the opportunity to learn and grow through travel. Vietnam, thank you for an unforgettable experience!

Things I have learned from a year in London  by Safia Southey

I am a New Yorker to the bottom of my core 

London is incredible diverse if you define diversity in terms of white Europeans

You never know how much the sun really matters until it disappears

Those double decker busses are scary when you’re on a bike 

£20 theater tickets to see random Doctor Who actors live are a major win 

Conflict studies at LSE = Irish civil war 

How can so a city with so much history be so bland 

The north and the south are not friends 

If you thought the number of Starbucks in New York was bad, just wait until you process how many Prets there are in London (but I do love that subscription plan)

Electric bikes are incredible

As many strikes as Paris but people don’t get that into it so it’s less fun 

Please for the love of god find me a cafe / restaurant / pub that is not a chain 

These subways are so deep???? 

New Yorkers and Londoners are both alcoholics but in NY it’s classy with cocktail bars and wine nights rather than just chugging piNTS OUTDOORS

Things cost the same as New York but people get paid way less so idk how that works 

French men are annoying no matter where you are in the world 

However, this city does make Paris seem acceptable by comparison 

London is if Columbia was a city - and by that I mean harshly corporate and neoliberal in its core identity 

Foxes are just abound ? Definitively a win